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model: Karen Bendou; photographer: Mario Sorrenti; “Deep Thoughts” W January 1996

(from Fashion Photography of the Nineties, ed. Camilla Nickerson and Neville Wakefield 1996)

This style of photography sort of undermines the whole idea of “heroin chic” as a documentary style. I cannot imagine the spontaneous moment that this could be documenting — oh, yeah, we had over some strung-out models wearing velvet bathing suits and they lounged around on our red-satin-covered pedestal. But it is clearly anti-glamour — minimal makeup, a simple ponytail, amateurish lighting and improper color correction — and is very evocative.